North Norfolk
Sarah Hardy bigs up everything North Norfolk as she shares some of her favourite places
North Norfolk is really the jewel in the county’s crown – a real hotspot of great hotels, restaurants, pubs, delis, farm shops and more – plus numerous tourist must sees like the gorgeous Holkham Estate, wildlife reserves such as RSPB Titchwell Marsh and, it goes without saying, the seals at Blakeney Point.
And that’s before you mention the amazing coastline which offers everything from wide sandy bays such as at Brancaster to the mysterious creeks and marshes of Stiffkey and Blakeney.
You can hire bikes, learn to sail, hop on board one of the little railway lines such as the Walsingham to Wells one or, put your boots on and walk the Norfolk Coast Path.
There are quaint villages such as Aldborough and Glandford, bustling markets towns like Holt and hubs including Drove Orchards at Thornham where you can enjoy first class shopping and eating options.
Much is within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and wherever you end up, you’ll always be amazed by the famous big, hopefully blue, skies.
What if you want to stay overnight?
King’s Head, Letheringsett
Where is it?
The Kings Head is just off the A148 in the small village of Letheringsett which is a couple of miles from Holt. It is also near coastal villages like Blakeney, Wiveton and Cley.
What’s it like?
It is very attractive, with elegant Georgian proportions and is the sort of house a child would draw – all straight lines, big windows and a central front door. Inside there’s a laid back air with The Shooting Room, all snug and comfy, and a large main bar and restaurant area with a trendy Scandi-style woodburner at its heart.
Tell us about the food?
As you’d expect, fish and seafood are a strength here and there’s a real accent on local produce. There’s a working flour mill, Letheringsett Mill, right nextdoor, while seasonal game dishes are a real treat.
Classics such as fish and chips and steaks are mixed up with perhaps pan-seared sea bream and tempura vegetables, while desserts include everyone’s favourite: sticky toffee pudding. Children have their own menu with popular choices such as penne pasta in a tomato sauce and breaded plaice goujons. And Sunday lunches are highly recommended.
What about dietary requirements?
I don’t think you should have any trouble – everything is very clearly marked up on the menu, and there is plenty of choice.
What about drinks?
Look out for a good selection of local artisan beers such as Moon Gazer Ales and Brancaster Brewery – and Norfolk gins like Bullards, and I spotted Cobble Hill Bacchus, which is produced at a vineyard just outside Burnham Market.
We hear there are nice gardens?
Yes, very much so. There’s a large, enclosed garden packed with tables and chairs and a little play area for children, plus the Summer Garden Shack and Bar where you can enjoy freshly prepared food and drinks. Try their little plates and seasonal salads and you won’t go wrong.
What about the bedrooms?
There are just four bedrooms, all dog friendly and decorated with a bit of flair. They are named after local beauty spots, and ours, The Glandford, was very comfy – and the bathroom was big, too! Think quirky prints, statement lamps, crisp white bedlinen, bold cushions, a decent telly and more.
And it is award winning?
It was named best Norfolk pub 2023 in the National Pub and Bar Awards.
What if you want to prefer self-catering?
Sea Pink, Wells
Whereabouts is this place?
Sea Pink is a pretty bijou bolthole just minutes from the quay in Wells, in a private little courtyard called Brigg Square.
Does that mean there is actually parking?
Yes! Wells can be challenging, but you can park up here and not worry.
Tell us about it then?
It is all light and airy, with the odd retro touch here and there. There is one bedroom (Cath Kidston linen), a shower room, a little sitting room and a kitchen – plus a sunny deck area. There’s all the essentials like a Smart TV, super fast Wifi, a well equipped kitchen, a decent coffee maker and more.
What’s nearby?
Wells Crab House is practically opposite and is consistently excellent, while the new Two Magpies Bakery is just moments away
for all your sweet cravings and terrific sourdough loaves.
What else do we need to know?
Dogs are not allowed here. The owners also rent out their very stylish beach hut at Wells so you can have a full on seaside experience.
Six top places to eat and why
The Parlour at Binham is set in a beautifully converted 17th century barn on a working farm. Chef Lewis Peck keeps it relatively simple with delicious breakfasts, brunches, light lunches and afternoon teas. Much use is made of the farm’s own raw milk, and you can wander around the adjoining priory ruins which are just sublime.
Stamp in Aylsham is newish and really gaining lots of attention for simply being both good and fun. It’s all about their wood-fired sourdough pizzas, with local, seasonal produce featuring both classic and more unusual toppings.
Meadowsweet. It’s hard to get a table at Meadowsweet, the Michelin starred restaurant in Holt. Chef Patron Greg Anderson serves up a multi-course tasting menu, using only the finest ingredients. The attention to detail is amazing. There are three bedrooms, too.
Rocky Bottoms is the place for seafood as the owners, Ali and Richard Matthews, have their own fishing boat, the Anna-Gail, which delivers fresh fish to the restaurant on a daily basis. Set on the cliffs at West Runton, the coastal views are as good as the seafood, with dressed crab and lobster the star attractions.
The Old Store in Snettisham, run by Chris Mann, the former head chef at Titchwell Manor, is a microbakery and coffee shop, with great breakfasts, brunches and lunches on offer. Look out for smoothies, and the buttermilk pancakes are yummy. You can’t book and it is all very relaxed.
The Gin Trap Inn at Ringstead is a perfect gastropub with very attractive bedrooms, too. Chef Patron Gareth Rayner is pushing foodie boundaries with his exciting menus which use plenty of local, seasonal produce. And there’s masses of outdoor space – seek out the wooden cabanas.
Five favourite foodie shops and why
Satchells in Burnham Market is an Aladdin’s Cave of quaffable delights, with owner Maxwell Graham Wood a fount of knowledge. He mixes up local favourites with sophisticated offerings from further afield. Simply a gem.
Swirl in Wells has such a sense of humour. It’s an old fashioned ice cream parlour, with a very modern twist. It dishes up soft serve ice cream, in many weird and wonderful flavours, with a multitude of toppings and sprinkles, too. There’s even a dog friendly ice cream for your four legged friend.
Bakers and Larners of Holt is often nicknamed the Fortnum and Mason of Norfolk and it is easy to see why. The Food Hall is packed with both local goodies from say Candi’s Chutneys, a wide choice of Continental offerings such as Japanese soy sauce alongside the finest British produce. The wine department has about the best choice in the county, with lots and lots of fizz!
The Norfolk Deli in Hunstanton is a fascinating emporium of local goods, from cheeses to gins, from chocolate to wine. And you can also find oils from Greece and truffles from Paris. Hampers are another speciality and you can send them all over the world, and look out for their cheese wedding cakes.
Fig & Olive in Cromer opened last year and offers a tasty mix of jams, chutneys, oils, charcuterie, beers, wines, sauces and more. There’s strong coffee on offer plus a range of cakes, biscuits and other naughty delights. We like the refill stations for oils, while the cheese counter most definitely calls you.
Five Norfolk food & drinks to try
Black Shuck Distillery. The new Schnapps range from the fabulous distillery in Fakenham is perfect for summer al fresco quaffing. There are four flavours available, including strawberry and lime, and you can drink them as a shot, use them as a base for a cocktail or simply add to a glass of sparkling wine. Every way works for us!
Ginger and Juice, based in Walsingham, produces a range of top quality jams, marmalades and chutneys using local, seasonal produce. We recommend the blackberry and bay jam and the punchy sweet chilli jam, perfect with, yes you’ve guessed it, cheese.
Malt Coast Brewery, based on a working farm on the Holkham Estate, produces a core range of five beers, including an Amber Ale and an IPA, all using barley produced in the surrounding fields.
Phil Hartshorne of the artisan Staithe Smokehouse sells divine smoked salmon, haddock, kippers and more from his little shop in the grounds of the White Horse at Brancaster Staithe. It all oozes atmosphere and is well worth a visit.
Catherine Temple has acquired near legendary status for her Mrs Temple’s Cheese, produced at Wighton, near Wells, from the farm’s own dairy herd. Binham Blue is perhaps the best known but do try the soft cheese, Wighton, or the mountain style Wells Alpine – perfect in a sarnie.
Sharrington Strawberries, near Holt, is well known for the quality of its fruit, with their strawberries, raspberries and blackberries filling many tummies. Add some Dann’s ice cream for the perfect summer dessert.
Eric Snaith runs Titchwell Manor alongside fish and chip and pizza outlets in Thornham, Holt and Norwich. He said ‘I’ve seen such a change in the food scene in North Norfolk over the past 35 years, since we first bought Titchwell Manor. It’s the choice, quality and variety that has really expanded over that time with lots of excellent AA rosette, Michelin star restaurants, gastro pubs and, of course, fish and chips and pizza – both of which I love being part of.
‘The competition keeps us all on our toes and producing our finest. Whilst people are feeling the pinch with inflation, more are holidaying in the UK. And people still want a good quality
food treat when they go away. We’ve
got some excellent food establishments here in North Norfolk and some outstanding suppliers.
‘My friends Ben and Cyril at Brancaster Oysters supply us at Titchwell Manor and many others along the coast. We’re also proud to stock Duration Brewery’s range of beers and ales produced down the road in West Acre at the restaurant in Titchwell Manor, Eric’s Fish and Chips and Eric’s Pizza.’
Sarah’s top 3 recommendations
Sit on the first floor terrace at the White Horse at Brancaster Staithe and watch the sunset over the salt marshes – with a large glass of white wine.
Visit Creake Abbey’s monthly farmers’ market where you’ll find the cream of local artisan producers. It’s a great chance to sample different products and chat with the makers who love sharing their stories.
Try a fondue night at Star Plain Stores in Holt. Owner Tom Brady is full of fun ideas and this is just one of them. His deli/cafe is becoming the place for quirky foods and drinks, and there’s a lovely atmosphere too.