LIFE & LIVING
Kate Morfoot, leading food and travel writer and founder of LoveToEatToTravel.com reviews the newest opening in Norfolk
The word is out… the historic Sculthorpe Mill near Fakenham in Norfolk is open and what a treat it is!
It’s a lovely warm summer’s evening in August and we feel like we’ve been transported to Italy as we’re sipping our drinks by the river. Everyone had taken advantage of the good weather, the outside tables were packed full of happy souls, pleased to be able to enjoy the pleasant surroundings and their food and drinks by the water at this new hip destination pub. Inside, the bar was buzzing with people and teeming with lots of bar staff, it didn’t take long for us to get served.
The Head Chef (Elliot Ketley) serves food that’s all about taste and what I tasted was delicious. He only uses high quality ingredients. The menu is ingredient-led and locally sourced, surely a common-sense formula for what makes food taste so good, and he gets it spot on.
Sculthorpe Mill support local suppliers that include fisherman, Henry Randall who, at only 26, is one of the youngest fishermen currently fishing off Cromer and Weybourne; Hillside Nurseries in Toftwood for their tomatoes; Dexter beef and Herdwick lamb from Heath Farm in Great Massingham and ethically sourced Norfolk quail and poussin from High Field Farm.
Must-tries include smoked sea trout with shaved fennel and apple, Cromer crab and avocado salad with pickled cucumber and wild sea bream with brown butter, samphire and capers. I chose the sea bream (£17.50); it was beautifully fresh and cooked to perfection with crispy skin. I had a little side order of vegetables. This little bowl was full of fresh tasting goodness with beautifully cooked carrots, peas and broad beans, which in fact, made the meal more special.
Dishes from the land feature choices such as venison tartare with smoked egg yolk and raw cacao and grilled pork rib eye chop with broad beans; while those following a plant-based diet, can opt for a golden beetroot and black bean burger with caramelised onions or charred
baby cauliflower with mint, pistachios and harissa.
My husband had the very tasty Dexter rump steak (£21.50), grilled to his liking and very much enjoyed. Steak is often hard to get right but this scored top marks in terms of flavour, how it was cooked and presented with fresh watercress. All hot dishes also passed the all-important hot plate test!
Throughout the summer, the Garden Menu is served on the covered terrace surrounded by two crystal clear streams which run either side. I loved the three sweetcorn fritters, chipotle and lime mayo. It was quite a substantial starter for just £6.
Other things to try are crudites, pea hummus, ranch dressing; mixed fish fry-up with tartare sauce as a starter or main; golden beetroot and black bean burger with caramelized onions and pickles; Dexter Beef burger with caramelised onions, pickles and chips.
The puddings are traditional and delicious. Choose from the chocolate orange torte, crème fraiche, lemon and elderflower posset with blueberries, a peach and almond tart with vanilla ice cream and the good old summer favourite, strawberries and cream. We did!
Pudding fans take note, there’s one stand-out decadent pudding for both children and adults alike, the ever-non-fattening knickerbocker glory. Do save room for this firm favourite!
Wine consultant Zeren Wilson is responsible for the exciting and unashamedly predominantly European wine list. Putting the spotlight on lesser-known producers and boutique wineries, the result is an eclectic and characterful selection, from British sparkling varietals through to robust reds and best-in-class whites as well as blush rosés and orange wines.
There’s an East Anglian range of cask ales and craft beers from Moongazer and Barsham Breweries, cider from Whin Hill in Wells-next-the-Sea and other interesting UK brews including Apple Pie and Rhubarb cider from Turners in Kent. You’ll also find a great range of locally distilled artisan spirits, house-made cordials and freshly squeezed seasonal juices.
To give you some background, Sculthorpe Mill is a water mill built in 1757 which sits atop of the River Wensum. Now the historic building, known as a ‘destination pub with rooms’ has been launched by siblings Siobhan and Caitriona Peyton, Norfolk residents of twenty years. Spending a six-figure sum, they’ve stylishly transformed this destination pub with six bedrooms with the help of acclaimed interior designer Shaun Clarkson.
It seems the Peyton family have hospitality in their blood. They’ve worked their whole lives in some of London’s most innovative and ground-breaking restaurants and bars.
Some fashionable-looking locals were adorning the front of the mill, taking drinks and bar meals overlooking the river on the new outdoor patio. To the back of the pub, there’s a charming flower-covered undercover pergola dining area and beyond a beautiful lawn and garden with lots of tables and pretty lights by the river.
There are two cosy snug room areas to eat or drink inside. The public bar area provides an informal and buzzy atmosphere, then there’s private dining downstairs donning Dolce & Gabbana style wallpaper. The upstairs dining which you can also take for private parties has lots of character – there’s some serious wooden beams to view!
It’s fabulous to know that Sculthorpe Mill is on the culinary map of Norfolk and I’m sure it’ll become a firm favourite for many who enjoy a lovely pub atmosphere, beautiful surroundings and tasty food.
Things to know:
• The shorter Garden Menu is served Monday and Tuesday (Prices from £11.50) and the full Restaurant Menu from Wednesday to Sunday (Prices from £7). Sunday Menu. (Roast lunches start from £14.50).
• A Bar Menu is also available (Prices from £4).
• It’s advisable to book.
• For staycations, foodie breaks and weekend getaways, six bedrooms offer just the right degree of comfort and luxury. From family suites to doubles and dog-friendly rooms, all boast views of the Mill’s gorgeous gardens and of course, the River Wensum, a site of Special Scientific Interest. Rates start from £110 per night, inclusive of a hearty Norfolk breakfast.